Town in Devon, England

Barnstaple

Barnstaple has been trading since the days of King Athelstan, and its merchants once sealed deals on a special stone under a colonnade topped by Queen Anne.

Key information

County: Devon
Nation: England
Population: about 24,000 (2011 Census)
Known for: Claim to be one of England's oldest boroughs, the Pannier Market, Long Bridge, Queen Anne's Walk, Barum ware pottery
What locals are called: Barnstaple folk; the town's old nickname is Barum
Famous people: John Gay, author of The Beggar's Opera
Football clubs: Barnstaple Town

About Barnstaple

A town with its own mint in the 900s

Barnstaple is one of the towns that says it is the oldest borough in England. The claim goes back to the 10th century, when it was a fortified settlement under King Athelstan and was important enough to strike its own coins. The reason is the River Taw. The town grew at the lowest sensible point to cross the river, where boats could come up from the sea. That made it a natural centre for markets, shipping and defence, and it has been the main town of North Devon ever since. The old nickname "Barum" comes from the town's ancient name. You will still find it on shops, pubs and the odd pottery mark.

The bridge with 16 arches

The Long Bridge is the town's great landmark. It has 16 arches and crosses the Taw on a medieval line, though it has been repaired and widened over the centuries, most notably in the 1960s. For hundreds of years it was the only way across the river here. Whoever controlled the crossing controlled the trade, which helps explain why Barnstaple grew so rich on wool, cloth and shipping.

Where merchants sealed their bargains on a stone

Queen Anne's Walk is a colonnaded building from the early 1700s, put up as a merchants' exchange beside the river. A statue of Queen Anne looks down from the top. In front of it stands the Tome Stone, where traders shook hands on deals. A bargain struck over the stone was as good as a signed contract. It is a nice reminder that Barnstaple's wealth came from ships and warehouses, with trade to Ireland, Wales and across the Atlantic. A short walk away is the Pannier Market, a Victorian hall from the 1850s where locals still buy fruit, cheese, crafts and bric-a-brac. Butchers' Row, with its old-fashioned stalls, runs alongside it.

Barum ware, the pottery that went to royalty

Barnstaple is known for its pottery. Barum ware, with its scratched-through patterns and glossy glazes, was made in the town from the 19th century, and the Brannam pottery became its best-known maker. North Devon clay and the town's trading links made it an ideal place to produce and export. Antique Barum jugs and vases still turn up in sale rooms and collectors' shelves across the country.

Otters, railways and a poet's town

Barnstaple is the start of the Tarka Trail, a long-distance route named after Henry Williamson's classic tale Tarka the Otter, which is set in the countryside around the Taw and Torridge. A section of the trail runs along a former railway line, popular with cyclists heading towards Braunton. The railways have their own story. The Lynton and Barnstaple narrow-gauge line ran for 19 miles across Exmoor from 1898 until it closed in 1935, and parts of it have since been brought back to life. The Tarka Line still links the town to Exeter. The town's best-known son is John Gay, born here in 1685. His satirical ballad opera The Beggar's Opera, first staged in 1728, was a smash hit in London and is still performed today.

Fair week and the rhythm of the year

Barnstaple Fair is an old September event, once a major trading occasion for the whole region, and the town still marks it each year. It gave its name to a well-known folk song. Today Barnstaple is the main shopping, market and transport town for a wide area of North Devon, with beaches, Exmoor and the estuary close by. Its football team, Barnstaple Town, keep the sporting flag flying locally.